The most common work we do on electric guitars is setups. Other common work includes repairing cracks, fret jobs, replacing pickups, replacing tuners and fixing saddles. Below is an example of a typical guitar setup.
Setup
The following guitar setup procedures are the ones that I follow on almost all electric guitars. The specifications are from the Fender website. They work well as a starting point for most electric guitars. These are minimum specifications which are meant to guide you, and should not to be taken as hard and fast rules, as we realize that every player's subjective requirements may differ somewhat based on individual playing style or application (i.e. how hard you pick, finger or fret the guitar).
Relief
Relief is managed by the truss rod to allow the strings to vibrate without hitting the frets. As the strings pull on the neck, it causes the neck into a bow. Tightening the truss rod straightens the neck and eliminates some of the bow. The amount of bow is known as relief. It is not the same as action. We will adjust the action later.
Tune strings up to pitch. Install a capo at the 1st fret; depress the 6th string at the last fret. With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret -- see the specification chart below for the proper gap. Caution: Because of the amount of string tension placed on the neck (some guitars also feature graphite reinforced necks, adding to the resistance present while the guitar is tuned to pitch), it is advisable to loosen the strings prior to making any actual adjustment. After the adjustment is made retune the strings to pitch and recheck the gap with the feeler gauge.
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Neck Radius |
Relief |
After most guitars are played, the frets become worn and slightly uneven. In a perfect world, before a setup the frets would be dressed level with the top of the fingerboard. This is not necessary if the frets are only a little worn. A more accurate way to measure relief is to measure the fingerboard itself. A notched straightedge is used to check the neck relief.
On this guitar, the relief was high so the truss rod was adjusted to lower the relief to factory specification.
This guitar has a neck radius of 12" so the relief is .010â??.
Action is the height of the strings off the frets. Players with a light touch can get away with lower action; others need higher action to avoid rattles. Action is set at the nut and at the saddles.
Be sure strings are tuned to pitch. The action at the nut is usually set at the factory. In some cases it needs to be adjusted. The action at the nut mostly affects playability down the neck. My method for setting nut action is to hold the string at the third fret and measure the distance of the string off the first fret. It should just clear the first fret. No adjustment needed here.
Before action is set at the bridge, the tremolo bridge must be partially set up and locked down. The tremolo height is a balance between the string tension and the tremolo spring tension.
First, remove the tremolo back cover. Check the tuning. Using your tremolo arm, pull the bridge back flush with the body. Loosen all six screws located at the front edge of the bridge plate. Raise them so that all of the screws measure approximately 1/16" above the top of the bridge plate. Finally, tighten the two outside screws back down until they are flush with the top of the bridge plate. The bridge will now pivot on the outside screws, leaving the four inside screws in place for bridge stability. For a two-pivot bridge like the American Standard bridge use your tremolo arm to pull the bridge back flush with the body and adjust the two pivot screws to the point where the tremolo plate sits entirely flush at the body (not lifted at the front or back of the plate).
Allowing the bridge to float freely (no tension on the tremolo arm) using the claw screws in the tremolo cavity, adjust the bridge to your desired angle (3/32" gap at rear of bridge).
Retune periodically to get the right balance between the strings and the springs. Once the tremolo is setup, I place an angled block behind the tremolo to secure it.
You can see both the E string set just a little higher than 4/64â??
To set the action, be sure strings are tuned to pitch. Using the 6" ruler, I measure the distance between the bottom of strings and top of the 17th fret. I adjust the bridge saddles to the height according to the chart, then re-tune.
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Neck Radius |
String Height |
Treble Side |
|
7.25" |
5/64" |
4/64" |
Pickup height
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Guitar |
String Height |
Treble Side |
|
Texas Specials Standard single-coil Humbuckers Lace Sensors |
8/64" 5/64" 4/64" close as possible |
6/64" 4/64" 4/64" close as possible |
Intonation
Without a full description of what intonation is and the theory behind it, the goal of setting intonation is to have the string play in tune all the way up and down the neck. Setting intonation is a compromise in adjustments since the construction of the electric guitar does not allow this to happen perfectly.
A starting point of setting intonation is having the string played open and at the 12th fret producing the same tone.
Final intonation adjustments should be made after all other adjustments have been finished. I set the pickup selector in the middle, volume and tone controls to the max. I make sure the strings are tuned to pitch. Comparing each string open to fretted at the 12th fret; if sharp, lengthen string by adjusting the saddle back; if flat, shorten string by moving the saddle forward. I retune and repeat.
