I recently received the following email:
Do you have any experience working on vintage Ric's?
I just acquired a 1967 360/12, which generally plays well with nice low action and pretty good intonation, except for the low E string(s), which has lots of fret buzz and weird intonation problems.
It still has the original bridge and saddles. While I've worked on other guitars, this bridge kinda scares me from working on it myself.
Since I did have experience with Rics (I own a 1999 360/12 Rickenbacker), the owner brought the guitar by the shop. It was a beautiful vintage 1967 with many original parts. The neck was still straight and parallel to the body of the guitar. Older twelve string Rics ofter need a neck reset. This is more difficult than most neck resets. The finish, although worn, was in very good shape. The fingerboard still had its lacquer finish. Some parts were missing and some were replaced, but overall, a beautiful guitar. Upon examination of the Ric, several things needed work:
The buzzing was caused by the frets being either worn or filed down from approximately the 8th through the 14th fret on the low E side. This caused the string to buzz on the upper frets whenever the low E string was fretted.
The owner decided on a two phase repair effort. The first phase: fix the buzzing, work on the intonation and make some cosmetic fixes. The second phase: new tuners, glue the fingerboard back to the neck and possibly replace the pickups.
The major part of the work was to fix the bridge and saddles and dress the frets. As you can see, the bridge had a downward bow in it. It was also covered with corrosion. The saddle slots were not the correct depth and the intonation needed adjusting. The frets were dressed using the same method as shown on the page showing fret dressing on a strat.
The first step was to remove the bridge from the guitar and the saddles from the bridge. I keep the parts separated so that they can be put back in the correct place. The parts were soaked in kerosene overnight to loosen the grime. After soaking in kerosene, they were soaked in naptha and then in acetone. A quick buffing on the buffing wheel and they came to life. Not only did they look better, the adjustments were much smoother since the grime and corrosion did not inhibit the motion of the adjusting screws.
The bridge was placed in a clamp. The clamp was tightened ¼ turn every hour or so until the bridge was straight. Then it was left for 24 hours in the clamp to keep from springing back. Here is a picture after the bridge was straightened. Now the action can be correctly set. 
Next step was to adjust the action and the string radius. The fingerboard had a 7.25 radius. Ric necks are also very narrow. Many players have a hard time playing the 360/12 because of the narrow neck. I follow the same setup procedure as outlined on the electric guitar setup page. After setting the action on the high E and low E strings, I used the string radius gauge to set the other strings. As you can see in the pictures of the bridge, there are no individual height adjustments for the saddles. The height is corrected by filing the saddles to the correct height. While filing, the string height, string spacing and intonation all have to be kept in balance. After filing, the saddles are buffed to remove any burrs or sharp edges that might break a string.
Here is a picture of the saddles after they have been filed and buffed. Notice the saddle for the low E string. Since the saddle is used to set the intonation for 2 strings of different gauges, the top of the saddle is modified to get the best compromise in string intonation of the two strings. Some owners swap out the bridge for one that has 12 individual saddles. This owner opted to maintain the vintage integrity of his Ric and kept the 6 saddle bridge.
Once the saddle work was completed, the new springs were installed on the saddle and bridge height adjusting screws and the bridge was re-installed on the guitar. The missing bridge cover was replaced with a genuine Ric part. The grommets were installed on the pickguard, separating the two pieces. The frets were dressed, the pickup heights adjusted and the guitar was given a full buffing to bring back its shine.